A Tale of Two Kings

As a Peace Corps Volunteer I am to keep myself removed from anything political as the Peace Corps presence in Panama is strictly contingent on an invitation by the Panamanian government. Clearly, I don’t want to break the peace. Yet, during my stay in Seiyic during culture week and during my site visit last week, conversations about kings, comarcas, and hydrologic dams were swirling around me. And more often than not I was asked what I thought about the heated issues. Repeatedly, I managed to formulate a vague diplomatic response.

During my short time with the Naso, I have learned a lot about the above issues, and a few google searches have helped me to fill in the holes. The possible construction of a hydroelectric dam on the River Bonyic has divided the Naso people. Its supporters offer that the project would provide positive development impacts to one of the country’s poorest regions and supply more efficient and reliable energy. Its opponents point to possible ecological degradation, threats to local economy, and cultural loss. Among the project’s supporters is Tito Santana, one of the two men claiming to be king of the Naso people. Due to his support of the Bonyic project, Tito was removed from the throne by civil up rise four years ago. A large majority of the Naso elected and currently regards Valetín Santana, Tito’s uncle, as the current Naso king. However, it is Tito who the Panamanian government acknowledges as king of the Naso.

I have heard my organic agricultural producers share their fear that their culture is extinguishing. I have also heard the government-funded radio messages in Changuinola about reducing energy consumption for a more secure tomorrow. As I look forward through the next couple years, I can picture myself up on a tight rope, arms extended, trying to maintain perfect balance, weighing the threats to the cultural heritage of my community against the threats to my own existence there as a Peace Corps Panama Volunteer.